Christiania is one of Copenhagen’s popular tourist attractions, but none were in sight on this chilly Tuesday evening. The neighbourhood has a special independent status and operates much like a very large co-op, one covering 34 hectares on valuable real estate in Copenhagen. This attractive site, home to some 850 residents, will probably be its undoing, as the government has its eyes set on this area for development.
Meanwhile, this freetown continues to exist, with entrepreneurs of all kinds hawking their goods on the streets. Purchases for me: a fetching, hand knitted wool hat. (Thank goodness I wasn’t in the market for one of the famous  Christiania bicycles which retail in the thousands of Danish Krone.
 
Stairs leading to the second floor (third if you're American) restaurant

Stairs leading to the second floor (third if you're American) restaurant

A and I headed up the graffittied stairs past the music club, Musikloppen, to the Spiseloppen restaurant. The anarchic surrounds revealed a warm and welcoming space, where the crab soup made a weather-appropriate and tasty start to the meal.  Next we shared smoked swordfish, smoked salmon, and a tower of mussels, all delicious and in tune with the sea-based fare that is a strong component of regional cuisine.
 
Four hours of engaging conversation later and it was time to head back to the Wake Up hotel and… go to sleep.

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